Divine Tribe atty's

Cool Chicky

Cool Chicky

I Took The Red Pill
If the hydratube's adapter gets wet it might create suction when you remove it. It will leave you with a watery surprise and ruin your new sofa. Luckily, the water was sort of fresh.
 
Cool Chicky,
  • Like
Reactions: OF
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Received my Gneration 2 dry herb atty today.... just made my first session and I'm a bit disappointed... I used the recommanded settings: TCR 300, 33W and tried 370 to 400 with a very light vapor production and a poor taste (not bad, just muted).

My hits are between 15s- 20s and I filled the chamber loosely with ground flowers of decent quality.

It looks like a sort of on demand conduction vape.

edit: got some better hits around 410°F but the load was still plenty of goodies I'm actually vaping with my MVT.
 
Last edited:
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
I used the recommanded settings: TCR 300, 33W and tried 370 to 400 with a very light vapor production and a poor taste (not bad, just muted).

My hits are between 15s- 20s and I filled the chamber loosely with ground flowers of decent quality.

It looks like a sort of on demand conduction vape.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure who recommended those settings but it wasn't me. IMO the 'm value' is too big so you dial up 370 and you get something like 302F instead. Just not hot enough to make solid vapor? That's the problem, right? Not enough vapor? Not hot enough? Shutting down too early in the heating?

And IMO 33 Watts is higher than needed (too much). 24 Watts, what I'd recommend and have been using successfully, will heat the load just fine in VW mode (try it and see), so that's enough power. No need to hammer it any harder.

At this point you can just keep dialing up the temperature until you get solid vapor, probably something like 480 if my numbers are right. This, and the estimate of 300F come from the ratio of 300 to the 245 i use. Sadly, ratios is an 'old fashioned' math technique for such things. One we don't really teach any more........

So I think you're using more power than prudent and telling the unit to expect a bigger change per degree so it's looking for too small a change. Try m=245, 24 Watts max, and 390/400F. It should work better. Using your numbers, as I just did, doesn't for me either. It stops at too low a resistance, that is it went from .75 Ohms to .98 when hot (and showing '3990F') not the 1.11 or so it normally runs at using my normal setting (and still showing 390F). The resistance is an accurate indicator of the rise in temperature, independent of all else.

And forget that "filled the chamber loosely" bit. This is a conduction vape, period. Heat has to transfer by mechanical contact, pack it well if you want it to sing and dance. Not so tight it gets hard to draw, but close up to that point. And depending on your goods (like how well cured it is) it might 'shrink back' some at the start, try taking the top off and packing it tighter again after a hit or two, that often makes a big difference.

You're close, obviously, getting modest vapor. But basically not following the path to more/better production? This is not an Apple product here, more of a 'thinking mans tool'? You need to be willing to experiment a bit, not follow some preset program?

Keep at it, you'll overcome.

OF
 
L

luciidddream

New Member
hey guys, I just got a DT v3 for concentrates and I love it. I've been using it on Ni mode with 33w and at 380F and have been loving it. TBH this is my first ecig device and i thoroughly have no understanding and get confused every time people use the terminology behind it. Could an experienced FC poster explain to me what I would need to do to my iStick Pico to get it functioning in TCR mode. Everyone seems to be saying thats the best, but when I follow instructionals or watch people post I just don't seem to getting the steps right. Would appreciate any help
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
@OF I tried your settings without success....
The setting I previously used are recommanded in the user guide and all in all the only clouds I got was with this settings... so I got back to the 300 TCR and played more with t° and wattage (33w is recommanded in the user guide). Now I'm using 430°F and got better clouds.

Did somebody got an atomizer short message sometimes?

Hmm... I'm thinking I'll like it but there is definitly a learning curve...I'm still not able to get a full extraction.

edit: Hi @luciidddream to set the V3 in TC mode:
- change TCR value of M1 (i.e) to 245 (that's the value I use)
- Choose TCR M1 mode
- lock the resistance
- set the power (W) between 20-50w
- set the temp between 360-400°F
Enjoy!
 
Last edited:
S

StickyShisha2

Well-Known Member
there is a post in this thread, a few months back, where @OF talks me through programming the Pico's tcr value. if i remember correctly, from off you need to press and hold the fire button and the up button, to get to that function in the menu.
 
Bad Ocelot

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
There's some variability in the heating elements for these atomizers, both for concentrates & flower, as with any manufactured product, so the settings in the user guide & offered here are good starting points but often require a bit of tweaking. For the Gen2 dry herb I'm currently using TCR=342, 35W, 360-390F. I'll usually start out at 360 & increase 10 degrees after each hit up to 390F or sometimes 400F to finish the load. While increasing the temp value & the TCR technically do the same thing the temp value is easier to adjust on most mods.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
The setting I previously used are recommanded in the user guide and all in all the only clouds I got was with this settings... so I got back to the 300 TCR and played more with t° and wattage (33w is recommanded in the user guide). Now I'm using 430°F and got better clouds.


edit: Hi @luciidddream to set the V3 in TC mode:
- change TCR value of M1 (i.e) to 245 (that's the value I use)
- Choose TCR M1 mode
- lock the resistance
- set the power (W) between 20-50w
- set the temp between 360-400°F
Click to expand...

I know 33 Watts is recommended, so is dating married women sometimes? It only needs 24 Watts, try and see? Why push harder than needed, when it only saves at most a couple of seconds? Again, adjust the temperature and m value settings so you end up with solid vapor at a temperature setting that 'seems right' (like 390F). Those two factors 'work together'.

As you can see from guys that use other m values (like selecting Ni coils) can also play in TCR, they just need a 'strange' temperature setting.

If you're running the smaller doughnut in V3, TCR of 245 also works well for me. However, with the big one I use 170 instead so I get similar performance at the same temperature.

This is not so much a 'follow the magic formula' deal as 'tweak the settings to get the results you want'.

As many of us have found, poke around a bit, the answer is in there.

OF
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
OF said:
This is not so much a 'follow the magic formula' deal as 'tweak the settings to get the results you want'.
Click to expand...
Yes I understand I must to experiment a bit more, although when I found the setting I enjoy habitually I'll stick with it (that's what I do with my Hercules, V3, Cerum?;;;). Here I still not find the perfect setting so I'll experiment a bit more.

Your maths seems correct since 480 looks like the better spot on TCR 300.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
Here I still not find the perfect setting so I'll experiment a bit more.

Your maths seems correct since 480 looks like the better spot on TCR 300.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're on the right track. It's hard to quibble about results you like, and nothing short of that is worth having IMO. You deserve the results you want and paid for (as long as they're realistic of course).

If you like 480F with m=300 you could try sticking at 390 or 400F and changing m values instead (down I suspect?) until the vapor production comes up to your goal? That's basically what I did a year or two back when the fun started when 'good old Matt' started selling V2.5s and suggesting we use an early TCR mod that didn't allow custom m values at all. Experimenting with the ones that do allow the custom settings by several of us trading ideas and results as we stumbled forward that got us to where we are today......and hopefully into the future.

Welcome aboard! Hopefully perfection is waiting for you a bit further down the road.

OF
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Is it normal my Evic+DC dry herb atty take a full 10s cycle ( I don't use yet the myevic firmware) to reach the temp limit? can I increase wattage to shortened the heating time? I use 30w actually ( I know @OF told us to use 24w max but I don't understand why since the TC feature avoid overheating, at least that is I understood from the Project from Pipes experience).

I ask that cause, even if it's a conduction vape I'm under impression I use it like a convection vape. Do you start to inhale before it reach the temp limit (what I do) or do you wait for the temp protection message to inhale?
All in all the most I use it the better it is, every session is better than the previous one but I need to slow down my testing cause I'm sick since this night(the flu)....although this morning I used it and even if I can't enjoy the taste I was pleasantly surprised cause it is very very smooth. But I'm still not able to get the abv where I like, I re-vape it in another device

Can I add this thread start to be confusing since 2 different products feedback are mixed..
 
Bad Ocelot

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
yep, I usually pulse the fire button every 5-7s so that it doesn't time out on me. Usually takes 15-20s to get up to temp, depending on settings.

As for using lower or higher wattage, lower is going to extend the life of the heating chamber, higher will reach temp sooner but is harder on the heater as well as likely causing temp spikes significantly above target temp.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Bad Ocelot said:
yep, I usually pulse the fire button every 5-7s so that it doesn't time out on me. Usually takes 15-20s to get up to temp, depending on settings.
Click to expand...

This is one of the reasons I'm really liking using the 'myEvic' software (on Mini, Cuboid, Basic, etc). It lets you run the cutoff out to 25 seconds. This way you can hold it down until it makes temperature then, before it times out, cycle the button and have 25 seconds to enjoy the hit?

OF
 
chimpybits

chimpybits

Well-Known Member
Ok about to pull the trigger on this V3 deal. A few questions:
- is the black still causing issues?
- is the Evic Basic still the recommended box? It is much harder to find in shops or online than say the Pico.
- any recommended sites for buying the Basic?
- any other things I should buy? I'd like to get all setup to minimize shipping costs to Canada.

This is my 2nd concentrate device (drdabber pen kaput). I'll be using it on the go and have an active lifestyle.
 
Last edited:
invertedisdead

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
chimpybits said:
Ok about to pull the trigger on this V3 deal. A few questions:
- is the black still causing issues?
- is the evic basic still the recommended box? It is much harder to find in shops or online than say the Pico.
- any recommended sites for buying the basic?
- any other things I should buy? I'd like to get all setup to minimize the pain from shipping costs to Canada.

This is my 2nd concentrate device (drdabber pen kaput). I'll be using it on the go and have an active lifestyle.
Click to expand...

I have that exact setup and it's great. Black v3 + Evic Basic.
Pico is a little larger but allows a swappable 18650 battery so more battery capacity is possible.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
OF said:
OK, so you planted the seed and I had to check this out. So, under the excuse of a 4/20 gift to the best guy I know, I ordered one.......if this doesn't work out, I'm coming after you.......maybe.
Click to expand...

I finally got my package of these fancy syringes. The jury's still out, but for now I'm calling off the contract on @Steven. But keep an eye on him (some would say that's a good idea anyway I hear.....).

It depends on how thick stuff is more than the 1cc Insulin versions due to the much larger bore as expected. The SS press doesn't really overcome this, my wax wouldn't dispense at Room Temperature although it did compact into a solid plug. The plastic knob wouldn't stand a chance. I'm sure heating will fix this but that's not going to make using it easier.

Oil, OTOH, dispenses like it was designed to do it. Come to think of it...... A 'flat' (1/3 of a turn spits out about 1/20 of a gram (.05) which is very easy to stick on the doughnut of V3 or shallow V2.5/7s. For now I'm simply dabbing it on (cold) in a couple places and it distributes itself perfectly with a bit of the pressing of the old button.

The Ti tip is an honest tip, not just a cover, the maker says "for brief exposure to hot surfaces". I not a dabber, but looks to me like it'd do just fine soaking up several seconds on the nail without heating enough to the thread end to be any kind of problem. It replaces the normal nozzle, the cover ("Prevents dust and pocket lint") and the screw on cap for the body (used in filling and storage?) remain the same.

Loaded normally, it's under 8 grams, but the SS cover adds over seventy to that. A couple ounces? Not practical for carry IMO. It's actually a press, it traps the body inside it and pushes the plunger in. The normal (plastic) version actually screws on the body with 'strong enough' threads that match the 'strong enough, maybe' threads on the stem. The SS body is for all time, I'm not so sure how many times you can count on those threads (or for how long if you look at it that way).

Thus far I think these guys have great utility in some cases. If that interests you, you should get a couple of the $5 plastic versions and check it out. New complete bodies are two bucks a set for as long as the threads hold out?

Anyway, useful to me now, and with some serious potential once I learn more.

If you never hear from me again, you'll know the testing went well.

OF
 
divinetribe

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
https://www.reddit.com/r/WAXRDA/comments/6725b7/discussion_designing_a_rebuildable_with_a_ceramic/

designing a rebuildable with a ceramic cup/base shaped for wax that will allow you to use any coil. i hope to have this prototype in hand next month.
Ceramic lining the bottom, postless deck, splatter-guard, it has direct side airflow
, i am making quickly to fit a niche. i want it to at least hold the 10mm donut or 2 7mm donuts, ,, I am trying to get them to make the crucible cup work with this, but there is a good chance a whole new atomizer might need to be built around the crucible cup.. Paul from crossing said 1 month for the crucible cup ,, we will see

4tir79wqyaty.jpg
 
PPN

PPN

Volute of Vapor
I'm totally pleased with the dry herb atty (crucible cup?), I never owned an on-demand conduction vape and this one works admirably well. Taste&clouds are on pair with some of the better conduction session vapes I own(ed).

I think a good 2 batteries mod would serve it better cause the autonomy would be incredible (maybe more than 10 bowls!) than my Evic mini, I own a Movkin Disguiser but that's my Hercule's proprietary mod.

The actual question for me is: need I a new fancy mod and let my VAS kick again?
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
PPN said:
I think a good 2 batteries mod would serve it better cause the autonomy would be incredible (maybe more than 10 bowls!) than my Evic mini, I own a Movkin Disguiser but that's my Hercule's proprietary mod.

The actual question for me is: need I a new fancy mod and let my VAS kick again?
Click to expand...

You might look at Mini Dual. I think Cuboid is too heavy for routine use. You might also consider iStick Power (a bigger version of Nano). It has 5000 mAh of battery and is still pretty small and light. I did 12 loads on mine as a test.

Glad you like Gen 2, I think it's neat as well.

OF
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom