• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

OF

Well-Known Member
Crazy that people can vape nugs in these, I have no idea how they would stay intact in the stem even with a screen, depending on the size of the nug/nuglet of course, chances are it would fall right on the heating element? I'll stick with finely grounded myself, to ensure that I extract the most. I bought the Air for $120 CAD (lightly used...) with an extra solo stem and the original box/contents, it's a 2014 model though and I'm sure there are newer models with some advantages, but I still saved some cash and I doubt the newer models would have too many improvements?

Try it, they stay intact, just get darker and give up vapor.

I suggest you try medium (as opposed to fine) grind. You need good contact in the load, but too fine tends to pack too tight and be hard to draw through. Experiment with grinds and packs.

And don't fear touching the bottom, it's not fatal nor even very noticeable IMO.

I actually prefer older models. Some don't since the air holes were later enlarged. But IMO restriction is fine, in fact Arizer no doubt researched it before deciding. But guys want to rip vapes like they do blazing. It doesn't work that way here. Heat can only move into the load slowly, that sets the maximum production rate, pushing it harder only draws more cold air in sealing heat that would otherwise make vapor....... You get a higher volume of more dilute vapor. Less THC total.

The very first units also lacked the later 'battery meter' such as it is. It depends on color so it pretty useless to those 1 out of 8 or so men (basically no women.....) who are color blind (like me). About half of us are Red/Green blind, so what colors do they use? Not to mention that the important part (the low end) has a single step for 1/2 the total? Like covering the bottom half of your gas gauge with tape. You know you'll run out of gas but don't know when really. Not awfully useful. Counting sessions (expect 4) per charge works for me.

BTW, the plastic topped stems mate up well with 14mm GonG connectors, no need to by an adapter to try WTs.

OF
 

FUCKCOMBUSTION88

Active Member
It appears that on the Arizer Air that I received, when removing the top vent cap, I can't adjust the rubber piece below? I don't want to force the rubber piece off or anything unless I'm 100% that it can be realigned and adjusted? It just sticks out which makes it more difficult to enter the stems as well and looks uneven. And yeah Arizer must be good for that, I heard the Extreme Q vapes whole buds, it just seems odd doing it that way... I was mainly concerned about conduction occurring from the herb touching the bottom heating element because I didn't want crumbs to accumulate below the heating element itself by falling through the 4 little holes, but yeah I guess a removal of the top vent cap and turning the unit upside down and shaking it would more than likely get any crumbs out from the inner electrical core area... I read the resistance was a negative before I got the Air (compared to drinking through a thick milkshake?) but so far I haven't feel much resistance at all, I'd prefer resistance anyway over a open draw where you'd run out of lung capacity too fast and inhale more air. Was actually looking into the LSV awhile ago but heard the draw on that is quite open. I have a 14mm gong adapter so that's great I'll have to try it out, almost seems like it would work with an 18mm as well because of the hole/chamber size in the Air. And the 2014 version of the Air has some type of battery meter, at least in the manual it shows that. (Lower LED glows solid red when battery is low, flashing green indicates charging, when battery is full LED will glow solid green) Thanks @OF Anyone have an opinion/recommendation on the questions 2 and 3 that I posted above? (Odd questions I know, clarification would be respected though)‎ Current setup, it's a start ‎m.imgur.com/MdyEXBM
 
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FUCKCOMBUSTION88,

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
Hey guys,

I'm trying to gauge some interest in wooden stems from me for the Arizer product line. I'm soon going to be working on some pieces that will likely thread on to the tipped glass stem. I've been creating some pieces for Vapcaps but would like to expand what I offer to the Arizer crowd and others vapourizer communities.

Please let me know if this is something that you are interested in here or in my thread in Vapour related Equipment.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/winegums-woodcraft.23750/

Here's my latest work

il_fullxfull.1193217403_b7x6.jpg
 

FUCKCOMBUSTION88

Active Member
Hey checking to see if anyone knows how to tell what year their Arizer Air was manufactured, all I can seem to find is the copyright date? Also just to clarify 100% that the rubber ring under the top vent cap can be removed to be realigned? Seems tight on there just don't want to break it
 
FUCKCOMBUSTION88,

tonytokes

Well-Known Member
I am about to pick up my Arizer Air tomorrow, super excited to have an ultra portable unit after having the Extreme Q + DDave mod for so many years.

I am looking at the Planet Vape High Efficiency Stems & GonG (PVHES and PVHEGonG) accessories and there's so many choices I don't know where to go with.

I will be using the Air mainly for portability purposes so a GonG attachment is not super necessary for me, although I do have a nice 18mm bubbler. Is there any reason why you can't just use a PVHEGonG as a regular dry stem? If a PVHEGonG isn't as suitable for dry usage I'd rather go with a PVHES.

Do I go with a Turbo? Shorty? Regular? Bent? Straight? Vortex? Any input on what route I should be going?

Are these stems significantly better than stock stems that it's worth forking out $30+ for?
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Hey checking to see if anyone knows how to tell what year their Arizer Air was manufactured, all I can seem to find is the copyright date? Also just to clarify 100% that the rubber ring under the top vent cap can be removed to be realigned? Seems tight on there just don't want to break it

No, there is no indication of date. The maker has told us the serial numbers are not to be depended on, there are gaps and cases of 'backwards' numbers that have been discussed here. The S/N is not necessarily even serial......

About the construction, look, forget what I told you twice? I probably don't know what I'm talking about. The soft ring (more like a washer really) does not come off and you should not mess with it. It doesn't look at all like in the photo below:
6V0F57D.jpg


That's not it lower Right. Nor is the part just above it the harder plastic 'nut' that doesn't thread onto the white plastic part to it's Left. It doesn't 'snap' over a rim at the top of the cap (which you can see if yo look closely), above where the seals for the stem seal are located (the ones you feel inserting the stem). That part doesn't really stick up through the Aluminum cover far Left. BTW, that's not the thread on cover you see upper Right. You've cleverly caught me giving advice I know nothing about.

OF
 

lookhigh

FC member
I am about to pick up my Arizer Air tomorrow, super excited to have an ultra portable unit after having the Extreme Q + DDave mod for so many years.

I am looking at the Planet Vape High Efficiency Stems & GonG (PVHES and PVHEGonG) accessories and there's so many choices I don't know where to go with.

I will be using the Air mainly for portability purposes so a GonG attachment is not super necessary for me, although I do have a nice 18mm bubbler. Is there any reason why you can't just use a PVHEGonG as a regular dry stem? If a PVHEGonG isn't as suitable for dry usage I'd rather go with a PVHES.

Do I go with a Turbo? Shorty? Regular? Bent? Straight? Vortex? Any input on what route I should be going?

Are these stems significantly better than stock stems that it's worth forking out $30+ for?
Try the stock ones first, you may like them. cost you nothing.
 

FUCKCOMBUSTION88

Active Member
Whoa dude now you got me confused with honest information and sarcasm lol... It's not that I didn't think that you knew what you were talking about or were providing the correct information, I actually really appreciate it and trust hearing from those with experience, I was just clarifying the brief mention of the rubber piece that I asked of before that you responded to. You wrote that it's loose and that I could center it to my hearts content, but it didn't seem loose at first, I've since figured it out and tried to realign it but it still sticks out a bit as shown in the first image I uploaded above, not a big deal though I guess as it still works great. Lots of pieces so just wanted to be sure you know before making a wrong move and fucking the vaporizer up or breaking something lol... Sorry for asking the multiple questions though if it's been bothersome, I've kind of blown this page up since I got the Air, but by all means, I thought that this was a community where people help each other out and can ask information openly and discuss vaporizers without feeling uncomfortable asking a specific question as odd as it may be, I feel all vaporizer related questions are relevant on FC? I do appreciate the help though man on these last few posts as I'm a new Arizer Air user and don't know everything about it. I actually thought that your Air seemed different than mine at a first glance but I realized that you got everything completely taken apart so I guess that picture answered my question, I was just inquiring about this piece here https://m.imgur.com/v9bmYEa The black circular rubber piece at the very top of the heating element but I got it I just wanted to be 100% before taking any risks.... Thank you @OF! I'm good!
 
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HSIHP

Well-Known Member
Forgive me for butting in, but you seem to ask many in-depth questions that all have answers in this thread. My suggestion is, if you don't want to take the risk of messing it up, don't mess with it. The Air is one of the most reputable pieces in the market and a few people on this board have torn it apart and put it back together with great documentation in this thread. Just dig a bit. :tup:

But more importantly, go enjoy the damn thing!
 

FUCKCOMBUSTION88

Active Member
Forgive me for butting in, but you seem to ask many in-depth questions that all have answers in this thread. My suggestion is, if you don't want to take the risk of messing it up, don't mess with it. The Air is one of the most reputable pieces in the market and a few people on this board have torn it apart and put it back together with great documentation in this thread. Just dig a bit. :tup:

But more importantly, go enjoy the damn thing!


Well said, thanks! It's a great vaporizer and I'm really enjoying it. Although I don't know about you guys but I'd prefer just doing it this way with direct communication, rather than searching through 391 pages looking for specific information that would be difficult to find if even existent. They say time is money and they also say @FUCKCOMBUSTION88 has to get his post count up to have a higher experience here on FC! Currently doing a session on the Air as I write it's pretty great
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Although I don't know about you guys but I'd prefer just doing it this way with direct communication, rather than searching through 391 pages looking for specific information that would be difficult to find if even existent.

I agree, there's a lot of material to search, and our search function is not all that easy to use. But that's the way it's set up. Part of the rules of the Forum we all agreed to abide by when we joined.

A common suggestion for new guys is to go back 20 pages or so and read forward to get the feel of the place and see if what you're looking for is common enough to be addressed in the past. Good advice, I think. This is not a good place for asking others to do your homework I think. Other Forums are I gather, I don't know as I don't read them. This one tends to 'a collective stream of consciousness' rather than something more structured.

Anyway, welcome to the fun. Glad you got an Air, great choice, good to hear you're getting to know each other.......'without preconditions' as they say.

OF
 

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
@FUCKCOMBUSTION88, read all 400ish pages as you'll discover things you didn't think to ask. That's the joy of learning :)

@OF, my Air is so funny with these weird battery ju ju's ... about once every 4-8 weeks it'll take me on a journey through patience and then after it something magically "fixes" itself it'll act normal for another 4-8 weeks. And then we fight until it submits, then back at it :)

Mod note: posts merged
 
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FUCKCOMBUSTION88

Active Member
Hey guys, I have one quick question to add if anyone could be of assistance, I've noticed that with my recently purchased Air, I'll set it to the preferred temperature setting (usually the orange setting after green) and once it reaches the temperature and the blue light stops blinking, I'll insert the glass stem and once I take a few draws, the blue light starts to flash again? Is this because the action of drawing from the stem cools down the heating core/element, due to the air flow, which is why the blue light continues to flash, to keep it circulating back to the specific temperature setting that I selected? It will occasionally do this halfway through a session, so just want to ensure that this is normal as I thought that it would have stayed at the selected temperature setting without cooling down too much from taking a few draws? If any others have experienced this and could provide any information, that would be great, I did a search but couldn't find anything on this! Thanks FC
 
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FreddieFresh

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I have one quick question to add if anyone could be of assistance, I've noticed that with my recently purchased Air, I'll set it to the preferred temperature setting (usually the orange setting after green) and once it reaches the temperature and the blue light stops blinking, I'll insert the glass stem and once I take a few draws, the blue light starts to flash again? Is this because the action of drawing from the stem cools down the heating core/element, due to the air flow, which is why the blue light continues to flash, to keep it circulating back to the specific temperature setting that I selected? It will occasionally do this halfway through a session, so just want to ensure that this is normal as I thought that it would have stayed at the selected temperature setting without cooling down too much from taking a few draws? If any others have experienced this and could provide any information, that would be great, I did a search but couldn't find anything on this! Thanks FC

Please use the search function! Just about every question you've asked has been answered on numerous occasions. I don't feel like digging for it but I'm pretty sure this is answered in the user manual. EVERY vape will fluctuate in temperature. Especially when you're drawing. The harder you draw, the sooner the blue light will start flashing because you're overwhelming he heater. Draw slow! Sip on it like a glass of hot tea
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I use the blue blinking to gauge if i'm hitting too hard. If I am taking a long draw it will often start blinking, so I just slow down a bit and eventually the Air will catch back up, and the blue light will remain sold.

I like it! How about we incorporate AI (Artificial Intelligence) since the natural version seems to be mighty rare and unreliable.......

It could use a series of tones to 'coach' you in the ideal hit. Perhaps using headphones and voice synthesis (hopefully better than the nanny reminders in new cars....). Owners could select male/female, stern/supportive, and so on. Kind of a Personal Vape Trainer? Or PVT as it will come to be known.

We could network together for group vapes. Maybe even get Ataxian to glass breaking advice.........

Nothing is too good for our new found fellow Air owners.

OF
 

disruptxd

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, how do you clean the gunk out of your arizer air ? I have gunk in the heating chamber... multiple Qtips and ISO didn't help,

I tried using a dabber to scrape lightly.. doesn't get it off either
 
disruptxd,

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, how do you clean the gunk out of your arizer air ? I have gunk in the heating chamber... multiple Qtips and ISO didn't help,

I tried using a dabber to scrape lightly.. doesn't get it off either

How bad is it? While mine isn't clean, it also is not gunky. I've used mine for over a year and never cleaned it.

I'd use high percentage iso, warm up the chamber, and q-tip it.
 

disruptxd

Well-Known Member
How bad is it? While mine isn't clean, it also is not gunky. I've used mine for over a year and never cleaned it.

I'd use high percentage iso, warm up the chamber, and q-tip it.
apologies for being anal, but how warm is warm (temp color? )

Im using 99% iso right now :(
 
disruptxd,

TwistedGray

Well-Known Member
apologies for being anal, but how warm is warm (temp color? )

Im using 99% iso right now :(

I would be speculating but I think you just want to warm it up enough to loosen the material. As long as you are not pouring ISO in the chamber I don't think it really matters how hot or not you set it to. To be extra cautious you could invert the unit as well, heat it up on red, turn it off and go to town. I bet that would work fine...again, I am speculating as my unit is not covered in gunk.

I am curious to see your interior chamber before cleaning. Also, how long have you been using it?
 

disruptxd

Well-Known Member
I would be speculating but I think you just want to warm it up enough to loosen the material. As long as you are not pouring ISO in the chamber I don't think it really matters how hot or not you set it to. To be extra cautious you could invert the unit as well, heat it up on red, turn it off and go to town. I bet that would work fine...again, I am speculating as my unit is not covered in gunk.

I am curious to see your interior chamber before cleaning. Also, how long have you been using it?

http://imgur.com/a/M0eH7

PICS included.
 
disruptxd,
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