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Vaping traditional (hard) hash

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
much as I love my mighty, it seems to not be up to the task of vaping the harder type (e.g. lebanese) of hash. it works just fine for softer types (e.g. bubble, finger) - the biggest clouds it ever made were from finger hash. from what I'm reading, the problem is the mighty's upper temperature limit, and that I need something that can get close to combustion temperature. it sounds like the titanium variant of the vapcap is 'the one' for my little problem. I'm interested to hear from people who have extensive experience vaping harder hashes, and extra points for mighty owners who can compare and contrast. thanks people!
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
much as I love my mighty, it seems to not be up to the task of vaping the harder type (e.g. lebanese) of hash. it works just fine for softer types (e.g. bubble, finger) - the biggest clouds it ever made were from finger hash. from what I'm reading, the problem is the mighty's upper temperature limit, and that I need something that can get close to combustion temperature. it sounds like the titanium variant of the vapcap is 'the one' for my little problem. I'm interested to hear from people who have extensive experience vaping harder hashes, and extra points for mighty owners who can compare and contrast. thanks people!
I've owned a mighty and a ti tipped dynavap product. A big problem with hard hashes is that they often have much less resin in them than finger hash (I have made full melt finger hash just from breaking up nugs to make bubble!) and especially good bubble. Another issue is that they can sometimes be hard to crumble into a powder. This is necessary to expose enough surface area to the heat and get even and full vaporization.

Finally as you suggest, you need a high max temp. A ti vapcap is definitely what you want to resolve this issue. You could likely stuff whole chunks of traditional hash into it without crushing it up into powder! :D

For hash that doesn't fully melt, IMO it is all about the dynavap and the evo if you don't mind plugging in.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
I second the Ti tipped Vapcaps. I vape hash fairly frequently and my Vapcap performs the job flawlessly.

Get any Ti tipped Vapcap that appeals to you; from the regular Ti Woody, Ti Woody S to the Ti VonG or Ti VonG S. Or choose the ultimate Vapcap, the Omnivap. Indestructible and it can take anything you're inclined to throw at it.
 
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darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
You could likely stuff whole chunks of traditional hash into it without crushing it up into powder!

thanks again herbivore! excuse the cross-examination, but have you actually vaped hard hash in a vapcap? since I'd only be getting one for this reason (not saying I wouldn't use it for other things, but...), I'd really love to hear from people who can confirm it works. from what I've read here - that you can make the vapcap combust pretty easily if you overheat it - it stands to reason that it would, but actual experience always beats hypotheticals, right?
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
thanks again herbivore! excuse the cross-examination, but have you actually vaped hard hash in a vapcap? since I'd only be getting one for this reason (not saying I wouldn't use it for other things, but...), I'd really love to hear from people who can confirm it works. from what I've read here - that you can make the vapcap combust pretty easily if you overheat it - it stands to reason that it would, but actual experience always beats hypotheticals, right?
I haven't had non-melty hard hash in a long time now, definitely not since I've had a vapcap. I used to vape it in my Solo successfully by using a concentrate pad sandwich with a thin but complete layer of finely ground hard traditional hash with great success though, and my Mighty got much higher max temp than my Solo ever did!

Yes, the vapcap products can get as hot as you like, to combustion is no problem ;) If you can't get the hash to vape in that kind of unlimited heat conduction vape, then it just ain't vapable :D
 

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
thin but complete layer of finely ground hard traditional hash

thanks! it had occurred to me that I should try precisely this in my mighty; when I tried to vape hard hash last time I just broke it up into little bits - maybe that was the issue and I don't actually need another device after all. (I know, right? what is a non-VAS sufferer doing on this forum?)
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
thanks! it had occurred to me that I should try precisely this in my mighty; when I tried to vape hard hash last time I just broke it up into little bits - maybe that was the issue and I don't actually need another device after all. (I know, right? what is a non-VAS sufferer doing on this forum?)
Definitely give it a shot first brother, you might find yourself not needing to buy another vape. Of course, if you want something smaller than a vape pen that works for good sized loads of hash like you have on-the-go, then get a dynavap product anyway ;)
 
herbivore21,

Squiby

Well-Known Member
but have you actually vaped hard hash in a vapcap?
I'd really love to hear from people who can confirm it works.

I vape primarily two types of hash on a regular basis. A soft pliable Afghan hash and an absolutely rock hard Moroccan hash. The Vapcap knows how to do them both. As it does for wax crumble and shatter or even buds.

from what I've read here - that you can make the vapcap combust pretty easily if you overheat it

I have never combusted using my Vapcap. It just won't happen if you respect the click. You don't need to overheat the Vapcap to get results. Rather control your temps by applying heat deliberately to the lower half of the cap. It will take longer to reach a click and you will have achieved very hot temps. But it will be shy of combustion, IF you respect the click.

I get 3 heating cycles per load. I begin the first cycle by heating the lower end of the cap. Second cycle near the middle and the third cycle on the top half of the cap. Perfect every time.
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Hey buddy!

I have tried hard hash in most of the vapes in my sig. The best tools so far was the Vapman and the Vapcap. I prefer Vapcap as it gives smoother and bigger hits actually... I have found that slicing the hash very thinly and layering it on a second screen gives me the best results and it saves me hash. The screen can be cleaned easily afterwards by burning it with a torch lighter.
 

darbarikanada

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I've ever seen such unanimity of opinion on this forum: vapcap's the way to go for hash. thanks to all: natural farmer - you must see plenty of hard hash in Greece! squiby - good to know that 'the click' doesn't have to be disrespected if (when) I get one of these.

just when I thought I was immune to VAS. damn.
 

VapourHaze

Rexcornish on IG, Vaping since '02
A good option is to rosin your traditional hashes ... gives a good return and gives you some more options.

Hey @herbivore21 is there any way to clean up my traditional hash rosin? Its super nice and tasty and coming out clean (using 25 micrin metal screens for pressing) but leaves a lot of residue would be nice to clean up even more ... would it be worth winterizing or something? (Didnt really wanna use iso with non solvent extraction)
 

Kozzmozz

Infinite realities, infinite possibilities
Hey buddy!

I have tried hard hash in most of the vapes in my sig. The best tools so far was the Vapman and the Vapcap. I prefer Vapcap as it gives smoother and bigger hits actually... I have found that slicing the hash very thinly and layering it on a second screen gives me the best results and it saves me hash. The screen can be cleaned easily afterwards by burning it with a torch lighter.

Do you press the hash between two screens in your vapman? I've found that hash vapes nice in the vapman, but it's messy in my heating pan to clean afterwards. It does depends on the hash, more solid dry hash simply 'ashes' but I don't vape Lebanon for ex since the melty (goodness) is a pain to clean.
Or do you have some magic trick? I'm thinking rolling it in cotton, since I discovered cleaning the mouthpiece with cotton and vaping it afterwardsworks great!

Edit: sorry if maybe slightly offtopic, genuine interest though
 

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
A good option is to rosin your traditional hashes ... gives a good return and gives you some more options.

Hey @herbivore21 is there any way to clean up my traditional hash rosin? Its super nice and tasty and coming out clean (using 25 micrin metal screens for pressing) but leaves a lot of residue would be nice to clean up even more ... would it be worth winterizing or something? (Didnt really wanna use iso with non solvent extraction)
Oh damn just saw this now! Sorry man for some reason I never noticed the notification.

I do not recommend using solvents to clean up hash rosin. You would be much better off just using ethanol to wash the hash in the first place rather than rosining it and then winterize.

Also iso is nearly useless for winterizing. Frozen washes with iso are still helpful of course, but in terms of causing the wax/lipid fraction to solidify, only ethanol and methanol get it done reliably - and the latter shouldn't be used unless in a closed loop system where you're lab testing for solvent residue.

Short of finding finer screens (I don't know of many options for this myself, but I'm sure it is out there), you might need to change to another extraction technique to get something that leaves less residue. Does the oil taste bad at all or is it just the residue that bothers you? As a regular full melt dabber, I have come to prefer that level of residue (which qtips off the nail so much more easily than a rosin stain after dabbing that) personally and know that the best tasting concentrates actually leave more residue than the average stuff in most cases.

Some pics of the material might help give an idea of what you have?
 
herbivore21,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Do you press the hash between two screens in your vapman? I've found that hash vapes nice in the vapman, but it's messy in my heating pan to clean afterwards. It does depends on the hash, more solid dry hash simply 'ashes' but I don't vape Lebanon for ex since the melty (goodness) is a pain to clean.
Or do you have some magic trick? I'm thinking rolling it in cotton, since I discovered cleaning the mouthpiece with cotton and vaping it afterwardsworks great!

Edit: sorry if maybe slightly offtopic, genuine interest though

I used to shave thin slices of hash (hard or soft) with a small blade and sandwich them between two screens. After the session they were usually stuck together so I caught them with a pair of tweezers and torched the hell out of them! Some dusting after that and ISO and they were ready to go again. :)
 

Kozzmozz

Infinite realities, infinite possibilities
I used to shave thin slices of hash (hard or soft) with a small blade and sandwich them between two screens. After the session they were usually stuck together so I caught them with a pair of tweezers and torched the hell out of them! Some dusting after that and ISO and they were ready to go again. :)

Hmmm, I'll do some testing...

TO the laboratory! :science:



edit: 17min in and must say quite I'm quite medicated, as the American say. :cool:
Made a circular fluffy cotton bed, circular poop-like libanon next, and then a screen on top before closing.
(couldn't find a second screen but it works fine!):freak:
 
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VapourHaze

Rexcornish on IG, Vaping since '02
Oh damn just saw this now! Sorry man for some reason I never noticed the notification.

I do not recommend using solvents to clean up hash rosin. You would be much better off just using ethanol to wash the hash in the first place rather than rosining it and then winterize.

Also iso is nearly useless for winterizing. Frozen washes with iso are still helpful of course, but in terms of causing the wax/lipid fraction to solidify, only ethanol and methanol get it done reliably - and the latter shouldn't be used unless in a closed loop system where you're lab testing for solvent residue.

Short of finding finer screens (I don't know of many options for this myself, but I'm sure it is out there), you might need to change to another extraction technique to get something that leaves less residue. Does the oil taste bad at all or is it just the residue that bothers you? As a regular full melt dabber, I have come to prefer that level of residue (which qtips off the nail so much more easily than a rosin stain after dabbing that) personally and know that the best tasting concentrates actually leave more residue than the average stuff in most cases.

Some pics of the material might help give an idea of what you have?

No worries .. as always thanks for the detailes reply.

Overall im happy with the rosin was just wondering if it could be cleaner (maintain more clarity) also less residue would be good for pens (i know u a omnivap guy)

Ill keep an eye out .. must be some 10 micron screens about? ... what do u use?
 
VapourHaze,

pileus

Well-Known Member
I have great sessions with hard hash in the Mighty (and Crafty) at 405f. No bud added. Much cleaner and controlled head space, and the body effects can be profound for even a high tolerance bud consumer.
 
pileus,
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