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Discontinued The Grasshopper

dac13

Well-Known Member
I got a GH off ebay new with the serial number active still. I got it july 27th and today i got flash red and blue lights. 4 days of greatness because this thing rips. I prefer it over my other vapes the fw3 and the milaana. And i am leaving for the beach 4 hours away for this week so i was really looking forward to vacation with the grass hopper :-(

So determined to fix it so i could still take it on vacation i tried cleaning with iso and qtip. Cleaned the threads on the back end and front. Back had a little black which excited me because i thought it would fix the issue but it did not. I also tried twisting the temp dial over 100 times as i have heard it can help. Neither of those two things worked.

Guess its time to join the warranty club. For reference since i got off ebay, the serial number is in the 2700. Also its a regular Titanium
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
The most expensive voodoo is usual the most successful. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cognitive_dissonance

This will mainly affect your ability to notice high frequencies and maybe fine resolution. When it comes to cables, they will mainly affect the ability to ship huge amounts of electrons at a time, and it will mainly influence the dynamic.

And ^that^ might be the parallel: The Hopper needs to get insane amperes thru the whole device and every chokepoint will affect the performance. Also if other parts than the heating element heat up, a part of the battery life will not be used for its purpose.

What really seems to help is somehow getting rid of the gunk a) between temp dial and clicker and b) between the battery and the contacts. For a) the occasional dry-turning seems to help. I also started using (unwaxed!!) floss, for b) its just a q-tip and preferrably 99% iso. Gravity helps preventing anything runs into the body. So actually less than 99% may also be fine ;)

I'm not sure what you meant by tying Cognitive Dissonance to electron flow, but your point about the parallel to the Hopper is basically what I was eluding to. "Choke point" is an excellent term to use in this case; high current (greater than 1 amp from a small battery, no less) needs an ideal connection.

I have a friend with a sailboat, and for a year he couldn't figure out why one light on starboard was dimmer than the others. Of course, there was a splice in the line, hidden from obvious detection. When I undid the splice, it was half-corroded on the outside, even though in the center it was still "shiny copper wire". The current could not be accommodated through that connection. That meant that there was heat being generated at that splice, wicking away the full current to the bulb.

Science! :clap:
 

lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
My grasshopper stopped heating up 2 days ago, changing its light from red to blue in less than 2 seconds when turning it on.

Today I cleaned the inner battery contact for the first time with some alcohol, and I got some black gunk in it with a few cotton swabs.

When it dried after a few minutes, for my surprise it started working again!

Thanks for the tips guys, I only had cleaned the battery contact from the upper piece recently. This will certainly make the wait for my new body easier (I will receive it this week, hopefully). :D
 

MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
After a mini tolerance break, I think I can easily convey why this thing has been "worth the wait" the whole time.

It literally smothers your cannabinoid receptors in a very short time.

It is good to have some green yet again.
Massive clouds. Choke worthy, makes non-bong smokers hand a milkshake away saying it will kill them.

I love this thing. It trumps nicotine addiction. No mean feat
 

lovecrush

http://goo.gl/EsKJzJ
I resorted to using rolling papers these last 48 hours... I can confirm that I hate the 'foggy' effect I get when I smoke, and I'm not even mentioning the paranoia with the smell. Smell in the room (even with open windows and a fan pointed at it), smell in my fingers, in my hair, my beard, my breath... Fuck combustion.

I need to buy a backup vape, maybe an og vapcap.
 

newVaper420

Vapor Enthusiast
I resorted to using rolling papers these last 48 hours... I can confirm that I hate the 'foggy' effect I get when I smoke, and I'm not even mentioning the paranoia with the smell. Smell in the room (even with open windows and a fan pointed at it), smell in my fingers, in my hair, my beard, my breath... Fuck combustion.

I need to buy a backup vape, maybe an og vapcap.

Backup vape - Mighty or Crafty LOL :-)

----

Anyhow we are in August. Can't wait to see what the newsletter says today :-).

Also, has anyone tried to put an enano stem with the silicon guard on the tip of the grasshopper? Wonder if that would alleviate some heat issues.
 
newVaper420,
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HappyFunTime

Well-Known Member
I really enjoy the grasshopper when used in conjunction with the crafty cooling unit. With the silicone tip on the GH it is possible to simply hold a CU to the hopper to make this work. (Remove CU screen.

This combo can provide huge, cool rips. The issue is that it can be cumbersome to hold during use. A such I thought of making a 3D printed adapter, but lack the tools/skills. As such I decided to use foil tape to make a prototype.

The GH with the silicon tip slide snugly into the adapter and since the GH full connects to the CU there is no tape in the air path.

http://anony.ws/image/NDnp
http://anony.ws/image/NDnr

Combined with my cigar tube mod the pair make for an interchangeable battery version of the crafty with instant on. It's a dream.

http://anony.ws/image/NDnx

After using this setup exclusively for about a month I want to circle back around and update this posting on my results.

1) The rubber mouthpiece collected lots of oil in use and would tend to want to slide off.
2) Over time the foil would loosen and allow air in the join with the mouthpiece, requiring pressure on the combo to get a good draw.
3) Reclaim collection is going well but I get more particles in it then with the crafty (I always used the oil pad on top of raw herbs so nothing got through).
4) Massive cool rips with no cool down. In fact I've found I can load an entire chamber full (no pack) and then clear it in 4 huge back to back pulls in around 30 seconds by leaving the heater on the whole time.


Given these results I decided to try version 2.0 made to be used without the mouthpiece. I was worried about getting an air tight seal but it worked a treat. I just cut off the old version and made a new one in a few minutes.

Since the hopper is so smooth that the foil, when wrapped tight, provides a near airtight seal allowing one handed operation, just slide the CU on. I would still like to see a 3D printed solution but this works well enough.

I tried the MFLB glass and acrylic stems and they work ok. I preferred the acrylic as the glass version wanted to slip out of the mouthpiece once oil build up starts. Neither provided the cooling power of the Crafty CU though. On the plus side the stem did fit in my cigar tube next the GH perfectly providing a solution when I can't carry the CU.
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
It's starting to look like the GH might be the perfect vape for those of us who like to obsessively clean our devices. Reading people's reports about gunky black swabs and resulting improved performance reminds me of my studio days cleaning tape heads on multi-track machines.

So far, the regimen seems to be iso swabbing the mouthpiece threads (mouthpiece and body), button/temp selection threads (tailpiece and body), battery contacts, and each end of the battery; with either manual exercising of temp selection dial or "flossing" between temp dial and button. Am I forgetting anything?
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Also, has anyone tried to put an enano stem with the silicon guard on the tip of the grasshopper? Wonder if that would alleviate some heat issues.
It fits in there, but you have to press it firmly against the nano stem to get a good seal. It didn't work well for me, I could only get thin vapor, there wasn't enough suction for a good hit.

I actually tried the same thing with the sticky brick last night, with similar results, the vapor was even thinner with the brick. I put the hopper with silicone tip up to the brick's heat intake. It might work better using the hole at the bottom of the mouthpiece block.
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
My grasshopper stopped heating up 2 days ago, changing its light from red to blue in less than 2 seconds when turning it on.

Today I cleaned the inner battery contact for the first time with some alcohol, and I got some black gunk in it with a few cotton swabs.

When it dried after a few minutes, for my surprise it started working again!

Thanks for the tips guys, I only had cleaned the battery contact from the upper piece recently. This will certainly make the wait for my new body easier (I will receive it this week, hopefully). :D
This is good information we are all getting....

It does beg the question, in my opinion, that, if cleaning the contacts is "the fix", insofar as this isn't a "fix", per se, but a required maintenance procedure -- then, why would they send a new body when all they have to say is "keep both battery contacts clean". ??

What improvement can they make to keep the mystery gunk (or is it extract?!?!) from appearing on the contacts??

So far, the regimen seems to be iso swabbing the mouthpiece threads (mouthpiece and body), button/temp selection threads (tailpiece and body), battery contacts, and each end of the battery; with either manual exercising of temp selection dial or "flossing" between temp dial and button. Am I forgetting anything?

I'm looking at this thing and wondering where this "floss" is supposed to go....? "between the temp dial and the button"? Do you mean that gap that narrows when you push the temp dial down? Unwaxed floss, right??
 

akwardsauce

gold all in my chains...dont believe me just watch
ok guys i just noticed something. on my SS one, my mouthpiece end always rattles because the screen is loose. i just find something sharp to kind of hook into a screen hole to twist it back into stable place (like a dental tool or tweezers in that video we have around here somewhere) but as soon as i close my mouthpiece back on and twist it off, the screen is loose and rattling again.

i found out that if i twist my mouthpiece until it locks into place, it kind of twists off the screen with it when removing the mouthpiece - i have to turn the screen about 2.5 more rotations in the opp direction for it to get locked into place! thats a LOT of turns which result in about a 1mm gap in closed mouthpiece if not fixed right away.

so its kinda annoying but the mouthpiece shouldnt be turned all the way til it locks in...its just there to provide a barrier so nothing gets into your mouth, so just turn it and keep it loose on there when youre on the go cuz otherwise you will have to fix the screen EACH TIME you remove the mouthpiece otherwise it will fall out in about 3-4 mouthpiece removals (also your MP will not screw in all the way when the screen is out of position).

i hope that makes sense...basically the MP grabs the screen and twists it out in the same threading path when its getting removed...anyone have a permanent fix instead of constant adjustments for this yet?
 
akwardsauce,

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
Also, has anyone tried to put an enano stem with the silicon guard on the tip of the grasshopper? Wonder if that would alleviate some heat issues.

It fits in there, but you have to press it firmly against the nano stem to get a good seal. It didn't work well for me, I could only get thin vapor, there wasn't enough suction for a good hit.

I actually tried the same thing with the sticky brick last night, with similar results, the vapor was even thinner with the brick. I put the hopper with silicone tip up to the brick's heat intake. It might work better using the hole at the bottom of the mouthpiece block.
I don't know what happened there, that was weird. I tried to finish that stem native, no mouthpiece, and wasn't getting much vapor. I checked the chamber and it was still green. Even at temp 5 I had a hard time extracting that load. It must be because it was a new strain I got a sample of, which has been a little lackluster.

I reloaded with a strain I've been using a lot, and the GH worked just fine with the E-Nano stem and Gong. The Gong gives warmer vapor but protects your lips from the heat. The stem cooled the vapor quite a bit, but was somewhat unwieldy.

I decided to test it with the Sticky Brick heat intake again and got the same results as before, very light vapor. :hmm:

Then I realized I needed to plug the top air intake hole, I was just plugging the carb so there was a lot of extra fresh air coming in thinning the vapor. Works like a champ that way, although it does seem to add draw restriction. Using it with the hole at the bottom of the mouthpiece block works better as you don't have to mess with carbs and there is less resistance.
 

Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
ok guys i just noticed something. on my SS one, my mouthpiece end always rattles because the screen is loose. i just find something sharp to kind of hook into a screen hole to twist it back into stable place (like a dental tool or tweezers in that video we have around here somewhere) but as soon as i close my mouthpiece back on and twist it off, the screen is loose and rattling again.

i found out that if i twist my mouthpiece until it locks into place, it kind of twists off the screen with it when removing the mouthpiece - i have to turn the screen about 2.5 more rotations in the opp direction for it to get locked into place! thats a LOT of turns which result in about a 1mm gap in closed mouthpiece if not fixed right away.

so its kinda annoying but the mouthpiece shouldnt be turned all the way til it locks in...its just there to provide a barrier so nothing gets into your mouth, so just turn it and keep it loose on there when youre on the go cuz otherwise you will have to fix the screen EACH TIME you remove the mouthpiece otherwise it will fall out in about 3-4 mouthpiece removals (also your MP will not screw in all the way when the screen is out of position).

i hope that makes sense...basically the MP grabs the screen and twists it out in the same threading path when its getting removed...anyone have a permanent fix instead of constant adjustments for this yet?
You may want to try disassembling the mouthpiece and giving all pieces an ISO soak, rinse and let dry, and then reassemble. I wonder if resin got in the mouthpiece grooves so it doesn't tighten completely.
 

Chose

Well-Known Member
ok guys i just noticed something. on my SS one, my mouthpiece end always rattles because the screen is loose. i just find something sharp to kind of hook into a screen hole to twist it back into stable place (like a dental tool or tweezers in that video we have around here somewhere) but as soon as i close my mouthpiece back on and twist it off, the screen is loose and rattling again.

i found out that if i twist my mouthpiece until it locks into place, it kind of twists off the screen with it when removing the mouthpiece - i have to turn the screen about 2.5 more rotations in the opp direction for it to get locked into place! thats a LOT of turns which result in about a 1mm gap in closed mouthpiece if not fixed right away.

so its kinda annoying but the mouthpiece shouldnt be turned all the way til it locks in...its just there to provide a barrier so nothing gets into your mouth, so just turn it and keep it loose on there when youre on the go cuz otherwise you will have to fix the screen EACH TIME you remove the mouthpiece otherwise it will fall out in about 3-4 mouthpiece removals (also your MP will not screw in all the way when the screen is out of position).

i hope that makes sense...basically the MP grabs the screen and twists it out in the same threading path when its getting removed...anyone have a permanent fix instead of constant adjustments for this yet?

I've had my hopper for five months and the screen has never come loose hasn't moved at all I think there might be something wrong with your screen or threading ask hopper labs is my advise
 
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Mr. Me2

Well-Known Member
I've had my hopper for five months and the screen has never come loose hasn't moved at all I think there might be something wrong with your screen or threading ask hopper labs is my advise
And my screen came loose on the 2nd or 3rd day, on 2 hoppers. I found that the right tool makes a big difference. I found precision tweezers at CVS, and they work great to really tighten the screen.

I did reach out to ghl first thinking it was a warranty claim. Caroline said the screen just needed to be tightened. Not to say that some others may be off or damaged in some way, and in need of replacement...
 

Chose

Well-Known Member
And my screen came loose on the 2nd or 3rd day, on 2 hoppers. I found that the right tool makes a big difference. I found precision tweezers at CVS, and they work great to really tighten the screen.

I did reach out to ghl first thinking it was a warranty claim. Caroline said the screen just needed to be tightened. Not to say that some others may be off or damaged in some way, and in need of replacement...
might be them new assembly staff getting confused with all 80 parts totally head shot and forgetting the final easy task of tightening them screens
Shit boxed it to late lol
 

JoeMama

Well-Known Member
This is where my OCD gets to have playtime, figuring out the nuances of this thing and sharing it and making sure every single person out there does it or else! hahaha

I'm glad to find out about the Mystery Gunk. It really has made a difference in the vape consistency! I wasn't getting dark-enough ABV to be satisfied (in spite of how ripped I might've gotten anyway :lmao:).

My little epiphany today about this is that the "weakest" point in the battery current-flow is the inside contact - because the battery terminal isn't flat, and it's narrow. Does this matter?, who knows, but I bet that GHL had researched and found a much better battery alternative but its cost would've made it prohibitive. I'm sure they'd love a better solution as much as we would.

It would be a stupendous act of perfect business practice if GHL has its eye on perfecting the battery component, and was able to offer it at a fair price. I get goose bumps just thinking about it. :nod:

Apologies for the back-to-back! Don't know how to delete a screw-up.
Modnote: Posts merged. You don't delete a screw up, you report it and let the staff fix it.

Regarding a post I made yesterday - http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-grasshopper.18482/page-424#post-1004718

I mentioned finding these things but for some reason I forgot to paste this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014PRSVIQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The perfect swabs!
 
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MoltenTiger

Well-Known Member
It's starting to look like the GH might be the perfect vape for those of us who like to obsessively clean our devices. Reading people's reports about gunky black swabs and resulting improved performance reminds me of my studio days cleaning tape heads on multi-track machines.

So far, the regimen seems to be iso swabbing the mouthpiece threads (mouthpiece and body), button/temp selection threads (tailpiece and body), battery contacts, and each end of the battery; with either manual exercising of temp selection dial or "flossing" between temp dial and button. Am I forgetting anything?
I think all vapes need maintenance. With my EQ it is costly getting new silicone, washing glass adapters in expensive chemicals, and replacing mesh screens. It takes a lot of effort to get it clean and operating optimally.
With the hopper, it can go for weeks without needing to be cleaned, and the cleaning that's required is simple and quick. But beyond just the business end of the vape, the power side needs a bit of quick maintenance too.
Thorough cleaning helps, but it's so simple a general clean is pretty much as effective/the same thing.

After you clean the threading the difference in turning smoothness is immediately noticeable, so I think if users just keep in mind what it feels like when the unit is new, it's easy to tell when a clean is due. Though it's not often, the hopper is great for those of us who don't mind a thorough glass and unit cleaning session, but don't want to have to do it frequently or spend more than 10 minutes doing it.
Salt+alcohol for glass.
Alcohol+cotton q-tips/pipe cleaners for the unit.
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
This is a cool story, I would love a Bose built room in my house.
However, what was the gauge difference of the wires? This is the only factor that counts audibly, unless one cable is damaged or purposely faulty.
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

I still think that if you were to be measuring, the bottle-necks of solder, components and the Ti shell would mean we would not see much, if any, benefit from gold instead of brass contacts. I am sure you could measure it to expose minor difference, but would you not need extremely precise gear, meaning any gain is effectively negligible?
But my main concern lies with the accumulation of gunk. If this is caused by arcing, does that mean there is a fundamental connection problem, or is this normal for contacts of this nature (unavoidable)?
Check out my PCB
ngy0xi.jpg

Put gold under that carbon and the problem doesn't go away, it is a problem right?

*On further inspection (gave it a wipe with a dry q-tip) it seems that the majority is actually discoloration of the metal plate. It's either scratched or... something
It has gotten worse since I've had the hopper, it's probably caused from the battery terminal scraping the contact when the back end is twisted on and the spring depresses.

Also, @JoeMama after cleaning all the contacts, I get a louder click. The click is a good sign and it is power being sent to the heater in pulses. If you turn the dial up when this is occuring the clicking gets louder. If the clicking stops it means the target temperature has been met and less power is being sent accordingly (hence it can stop with blue lights).


They were the same gauge, but the Monster Cable is welding cable fine strand and the standard cable looked like #12 solid that was stranded. Everything travels on the surface of the cable, the more strands the less resistance. We're on the same page for the gold, it would have to place in a unit like this.

I'm just hoping Hopper Labs is reading about thier real world use issues and looking at fixes for V2! If they are, the GH2 could be a burden free beast!
 

moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
I think all vapes need maintenance. With my EQ it is costly getting new silicone, washing glass adapters in expensive chemicals, and replacing mesh screens. It takes a lot of effort to get it clean and operating optimally.
With the hopper, it can go for weeks without needing to be cleaned, and the cleaning that's required is simple and quick. But beyond just the business end of the vape, the power side needs a bit of quick maintenance too.
Thorough cleaning helps, but it's so simple a general clean is pretty much as effective/the same thing.

After you clean the threading the difference in turning smoothness is immediately noticeable, so I think if users just keep in mind what it feels like when the unit is new, it's easy to tell when a clean is due. Though it's not often, the hopper is great for those of us who don't mind a thorough glass and unit cleaning session, but don't want to have to do it frequently or spend more than 10 minutes doing it.
Salt+alcohol for glass.
Alcohol+cotton q-tips/pipe cleaners for the unit.
Agreed, all vapes need maintenance, as does any machine. It seems to me though that whereas a lapse in maintenance might affect another vape's flavor or draw resistance, the GH displays some basic operational issues when cleaning is required. I'm sure there are other vapes where this is the case, but my experience across vapes is not THAT extensive.

That said, the hopper's maintenance needs do seem very easy to fulfill and I'm a big fan of ritual, so I see regular maintenance as a chance to bond with my vape.
 

TRVP LXRD

young kush god
So I got my grasshopper in a few weeks ago and it's been working great. Just recently though, the threading on the mouthpiece got fucked and the cap doesn't screw on anymore. I was tightening it and apparently I tightened it a little too hard? Anyway so now the threading is done and I can't even use it outside of my house because the cap comes loose and spills material everywhere. Has anyone had this issue happen to their grasshopper? if so, what did you do?
 

akwardsauce

gold all in my chains...dont believe me just watch
You may want to try disassembling the mouthpiece and giving all pieces an ISO soak, rinse and let dry, and then reassemble. I wonder if resin got in the mouthpiece grooves so it doesn't tighten completely.

so actually this was the SS that got its 2nd repair after combusting (they replaced the back & mid section totally and gave me my mouthpiece back)...this screen was loose since coming back from GH the first repair (2nd repair was a day after i got it back from the 1st one).

I've had my hopper for five months and the screen has never come loose hasn't moved at all I think there might be something wrong with your screen or threading ask hopper labs is my advise

ya not surprisingly, this is how GH sent it back to me after the 1st and 2nd repair...i really wish they put more effort into sending back a 100% fixed device...i think they dont care how many times you have to pay to ship it to them. their constant mistakes are starting to really get to me.

And my screen came loose on the 2nd or 3rd day, on 2 hoppers. I found that the right tool makes a big difference. I found precision tweezers at CVS, and they work great to really tighten the screen.

I did reach out to ghl first thinking it was a warranty claim. Caroline said the screen just needed to be tightened. Not to say that some others may be off or damaged in some way, and in need of replacement...

ya no matter how tight i set the screen, it always gets loosened by the mouthpiece rotating out.

So I got my grasshopper in a few weeks ago and it's been working great. Just recently though, the threading on the mouthpiece got fucked and the cap doesn't screw on anymore. I was tightening it and apparently I tightened it a little too hard? Anyway so now the threading is done and I can't even use it outside of my house because the cap comes loose and spills material everywhere. Has anyone had this issue happen to their grasshopper? if so, what did you do?

so i think this same thing happened to me...i thought it was a threading issue but i think your screen isnt screwed all the way down and i would try to do that before sending it in. basically the screen & the mouthpiece use the same set of threads so when the inner one (screen) isnt totally twisted down, the outer thing (mouthpiece) doesnt have access to enough threads to catch into the pathway...thats my theory.

either way, its kind of disappointing that we are hearing SO MANY instances of this device not working properly...sucks that there is a whole thread dedicated to fixing it yourself because when you get it back from GH, chances are you gotta send it in again...i really wish they put more effort into getting their stuff toegther the first time...its annoying reading all these issues...but im glad that FC is here to brainstorm and figure stuff out for ourselves.
 
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