BHO purge without vacuum?

johnnyblaze805

Certified Dankologist
I'm doin a vac less run soon.. Purging on a griddle.. I'm gonna do a water bath at 100 degrees till activity stops transfer and spread on pp and purge on my griddle at 110 degrees for as long a it takes.. Any tips? It's my 1st run!!! Got 6 ozs to play with
 

Unconnected

Well-Known Member
I had an idea to put bho into a shallow pyrex dish, then, when time to vac, put it inside one of those vacuum space bags, over the top of the dish you need some kind of a mesh cage giving the dish space to expand and breath out so the vac bag doesnt press down on it. I ahve never tried this but it is the idea i have to do a purge with a home vacuum. Maybe it wont work, better than nothing. After its in the space bag you just vacuum it out till it stops bubbling.
 
Unconnected,

dasbudda

New Member
Couple thoughts..

1. The temperature stability of any heating bath can be radically increased through the use of a cheap PID controller with a thermocouple placed in your bath. This can easily give you accurate temperature control over virtually any electric heat source. For more info google " diy sous vide".
2. Use mineral oil for your bath. Years ago I worked for a chocolate company making mochas. The choclate had to be kept hot on a double boiler to prevent scorching but condesation kills chocolate. This was our solution. Mineral oil is oderless, flavorless, food safe, and doesn't evaporate at these working temps.

Hope this is helpfu!-)
 

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
From start to finish i can have perfect amber shatter in 30 minutes or less... granted i havent been able to scale up this method, but will be testing that soon. Not a noob, ive graduated from vac purge to winterizing, etc...

now on to my latest lazy ass method:

Largest flat pyrex dish
1 oz subpar nug in glass tube
1 can of newport(probably not necessary to be newport but its what i got)
1 ryobi heat gun

Heat pan to 175-200 (accidentally at 220 once, just cause waxing)
Blast outside (away from anything electric, dont be an idiot) straight in to the pre heated pan
keep the tube moving just fast enough that the time you come back around the first layer has pretty much boiled off
soon as blast is done there will be a few large bubbles heat gun those and pop the pan back in the oven that you turned off but is still warm
check it in 10 minutes, heat gun bubbles again, should be butane free...
2-3gs shatter in 30.
unpack tube dry out material and repeat 2 - 3 times with same oz.
total yield after 3 runs around 8-9 gs

Ill provide pics and the mighty flame test vid(lol) if you want... anyways, you can make this shit as complicated as you want, but unless youre at least winterizing, inhaling minute amounts of butane from underpurged aint the worst of the issues. use nug, use decent tane, be safe. If you want to do a quick winterization, blast straight into some spirytus vodka (193 proof) and freeze it after the butanes been ejected by the alc. then filter, evap and enjoy!
 
bdmonkeyj3w,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
From start to finish i can have perfect amber shatter in 30 minutes or less... granted i havent been able to scale up this method, but will be testing that soon. Not a noob, ive graduated from vac purge to winterizing, etc...

now on to my latest lazy ass method:

Largest flat pyrex dish
1 oz subpar nug in glass tube
1 can of newport(probably not necessary to be newport but its what i got)
1 ryobi heat gun

Heat pan to 175-200 (accidentally at 220 once, just cause waxing)
Blast outside (away from anything electric, dont be an idiot) straight in to the pre heated pan
keep the tube moving just fast enough that the time you come back around the first layer has pretty much boiled off
soon as blast is done there will be a few large bubbles heat gun those and pop the pan back in the oven that you turned off but is still warm
check it in 10 minutes, heat gun bubbles again, should be butane free...
2-3gs shatter in 30.
unpack tube dry out material and repeat 2 - 3 times with same oz.
total yield after 3 runs around 8-9 gs

Ill provide pics and the mighty flame test vid(lol) if you want... anyways, you can make this shit as complicated as you want, but unless youre at least winterizing, inhaling minute amounts of butane from underpurged aint the worst of the issues. use nug, use decent tane, be safe. If you want to do a quick winterization, blast straight into some spirytus vodka (193 proof) and freeze it after the butanes been ejected by the alc. then filter, evap and enjoy!
Do you winterize with alcohol before the BHO?

I'm using only cola nugs.
 
ataxian,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
Do you winterize with alcohol before the BHO?

I'm using only cola nugs.

Eh... not sure what youre asking... If you winterize before blasting youre just doing an eth/iso wash. Absolute best results i got with winterizing was with that spirytus vodka, but i havent gotten around to purchasing some organic 200 proof online yet. id blast a few cans into a large pyrex measuring cup with a couple oz of alc. let the butane boil off/keep stirring until all bubbling stops. let it set and get miso soup looking. add a lil more alc before you put in freezer just to ease the filtering process. freeze over night as low as fridge can go, and filter all solids through brown coffee filter. place in pyrex heated to 175 and let it evap. it may go cloudy for a sec with the alc is gone and some residual moisture is left but a quick flash with the heat gun should clear it up. if you want shatter, DO NOT agitate the oil during purge/evap in either method ive laid out. hope that answers what youre asking atax. I wish i could only use cola nugs, all i got is subprime. Even after three runs of un packing, drying, repacking and re blasting im still pulling off shatter.
 
bdmonkeyj3w,
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ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Eh... not sure what youre asking... If you winterize before blasting youre just doing an eth/iso wash. Absolute best results i got with winterizing was with that spirytus vodka, but i havent gotten around to purchasing some organic 200 proof online yet. id blast a few cans into a large pyrex measuring cup with a couple oz of alc. let the butane boil off/keep stirring until all bubbling stops. let it set and get miso soup looking. add a lil more alc before you put in freezer just to ease the filtering process. freeze over night as low as fridge can go, and filter all solids through brown coffee filter. place in pyrex heated to 175 and let it evap. it may go cloudy for a sec with the alc is gone and some residual moisture is left but a quick flash with the heat gun should clear it up. if you want shatter, DO NOT agitate the oil during purge/evap in either method ive laid out. hope that answers what youre asking atax. I wish i could only use cola nugs, all i got is subprime. Even after three runs of un packing, drying, repacking and re blasting im still pulling off shatter.
I use top colas because I'm lazy!
All the sugar leaf and trim I throw away!

I make SHATTER because it's so easy!
 
ataxian,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
I use top colas because I'm lazy!
All the sugar leaf and trim I throw away!

I make SHATTER because it's so easy!

Do you prefer not-shatter? i get straight up wax if after winterizing the heat goes above 175 or even 150 for too long... and then itll turn to crumble if left in the open to breath for a couple days.

I spent alot of time the last couple months with waxes and crumbles and honey combs, only recently getting lazy and not wanting to put the effort to winterizing and what not. after sampling this latest batch of lazy shatter im convinced there is something lost in the winterization... whether its synergy from terpenes that get boiled off with the alc or stuff is precipitating in the solution that has psychoactive properties and being filtered. I dont have any winterized shatter to compare side by side with atm but it seems like im getting a much gnarlier buzz from the shatter.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Do you prefer not-shatter? i get straight up wax if after winterizing the heat goes above 175 or even 150 for too long... and then itll turn to crumble if left in the open to breath for a couple days.

I spent alot of time the last couple months with waxes and crumbles and honey combs, only recently getting lazy and not wanting to put the effort to winterizing and what not. after sampling this latest batch of lazy shatter im convinced there is something lost in the winterization... whether its synergy from terpenes that get boiled off with the alc or stuff is precipitating in the solution that has psychoactive properties and being filtered. I dont have any winterized shatter to compare side by side with atm but it seems like im getting a much gnarlier buzz from the shatter.
I'm rookie really.
I make shatter because it's easier.
Crumbled I love as well.
Never learned how to make it?
BHO + HOT PLATE + VACUUM = done

Easy!
 
ataxian,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
yeah, i just never liked the vacuum cause i found it to be a waste of time. Id vac and heat for hours on end and still have issues with residual... hence graduating to winterization, still takes time but less work/effort in to purging. Now im back to just using decent tane and letting the preheated pyrex pan boil it off as fast as it came out of the tube with the heat gun/oven finish in ten minutes or less. Time has become a crucial factor lately and having a couple weeks worth of shatter in less than an hour is really doing it for me.
 
bdmonkeyj3w,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
yeah, i just never liked the vacuum cause i found it to be a waste of time. Id vac and heat for hours on end and still have issues with residual... hence graduating to winterization, still takes time but less work/effort in to purging. Now im back to just using decent tane and letting the preheated pyrex pan boil it off as fast as it came out of the tube with the heat gun/oven finish in ten minutes or less. Time has become a crucial factor lately and having a couple weeks worth of shatter in less than an hour is really doing it for me.
I have a very nice vacuum set up.
I will winterize and purge my next batch.
 
ataxian,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
You have a great vac setup... ive never tried purging the alc solutions post winterization... just oven and sit. interested to hear what comes of that, more so about your time in the chamber for the alc. Ive been keepin my eyes open for a rotovap for the alc solution and then running a condenser off that to reclaim the alc... hard to come by greater than 151 in ca.
 
bdmonkeyj3w,

Bouldorado

Well-Known Member
yeah, i just never liked the vacuum cause i found it to be a waste of time. Id vac and heat for hours on end and still have issues with residual... hence graduating to winterization, still takes time but less work/effort in to purging. Now im back to just using decent tane and letting the preheated pyrex pan boil it off as fast as it came out of the tube with the heat gun/oven finish in ten minutes or less. Time has become a crucial factor lately and having a couple weeks worth of shatter in less than an hour is really doing it for me.

Just curious, what butane were you using before, and what are you using now?

I recently bought some Capital n-butane and honestly can't tell if it's worth the premium ($2-3/can) over normal canned butane. It also didn't do especially well in a lab test for residual oils:

http://www.tokecity.com/forums/show...-Mystery-Oil&p=1338141&viewfull=1#post1338141

http://skunkpharmresearch.com/bho-mystery-oil/
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
ataxian,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
Used vector, 5x & 7x(power), couple other off brands, newport, puretane and back to newport. Newport seems to be the easiest to purge but ive only used puretane with winterizing but id assume it would purge well like newport.
 
bdmonkeyj3w,

honeyb101

New Member
I have a vacuum chamber but if I'm not in a rush toaster oven between 110-150f depending on strain until no more bubbles works just as good.

I have agood question? Would you loose yield if it takes to long for the bho to evaporate example using a pyrex bowl instead of a dish? Also I water purge after my extraction... should I purge while extracting would you loose yield if not my
 
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honeyb101

New Member
[QUOTE="ataxian, poon strain until no more bubbles works just as good.[/QUOTE]


I have agood question? Would you loose yield if it takes to long for the bho to evaporate example using a pyrex bowl instead of a dish? Also I water purge after my extraction... should I purge while extracting would you loose yield

Eh what do u think?
 
honeyb101,

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I have agood question? Would you loose yield if it takes to long for the bho to evaporate example using a pyrex bowl instead of a dish? Also I water purge after my extraction... should I purge while extracting would you loose yield if not my
You did not ask me?

I vacuum purge and the vacuum chamber sits and a 110-115f hot plate while purging.
Nva2Atg.jpg


I taste the difference!
Colas from Dutch Crunch (Dutch Treat x Jack Herer)
Z9ZlqHV.jpg

I don't use trim!
 
Last edited:
ataxian,
  • Like
Reactions: smokum
From start to finish i can have perfect amber shatter in 30 minutes or less... granted i havent been able to scale up this method, but will be testing that soon. Not a noob, ive graduated from vac purge to winterizing, etc...

now on to my latest lazy ass method:

Largest flat pyrex dish
1 oz subpar nug in glass tube
1 can of newport(probably not necessary to be newport but its what i got)
1 ryobi heat gun

Heat pan to 175-200 (accidentally at 220 once, just cause waxing)
Blast outside (away from anything electric, dont be an idiot) straight in to the pre heated pan
keep the tube moving just fast enough that the time you come back around the first layer has pretty much boiled off
soon as blast is done there will be a few large bubbles heat gun those and pop the pan back in the oven that you turned off but is still warm
check it in 10 minutes, heat gun bubbles again, should be butane free...
2-3gs shatter in 30.
unpack tube dry out material and repeat 2 - 3 times with same oz.
total yield after 3 runs around 8-9 gs

Ill provide pics and the mighty flame test vid(lol) if you want... anyways, you can make this shit as complicated as you want, but unless youre at least winterizing, inhaling minute amounts of butane from underpurged aint the worst of the issues. use nug, use decent tane, be safe. If you want to do a quick winterization, blast straight into some spirytus vodka (193 proof) and freeze it after the butanes been ejected by the alc. then filter, evap and enjoy!
Hey I just had to make an account to ask a few things about this 'lazy' method?..
Firstly I'm assuming you heated the pyrex in the preheated oven and to know your pyrex is at 175-200 you'd be using a infrared thermometer?
And secondly, after the ten minute period in the oven you'd be collecting onto parchment before blasting into the pyrex for the second run? Id assume so otherwise your blasting into already purged bho and end result would be over purged I probably knew the answer to that one but wanted to make sure.. One last thing is it actual shatter once cooled down after the last oven stage? Sorry if this doesn't make much sense I'm on my phone at work
 
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Creamandcannabis420,

bdmonkeyj3w

Well-Known Member
I do have multiple temp tools, laser, food thermometer and ovens digital temp. Yes, you are correct, either scrape or have a second pan handy. It should be clear, but can be a lil gooey depending on your starting material. Also, this is a small batch method, 5gs in a standard size pan doesnt purge very fast. If you get a ss turkey baster from bbnb you can do have oz runs with lower temps and some elbow grease. Use a clean razor and keep spreading it thin until its clear.
 

Jared707

New Member
The best way to purge without a vacuum is to use a very accurate oven that can hold the temp at 170f - 175f, spread the Bho as thin as possible on parchment paper (after your initial waterbath purge) to create as much surface area as possible. The oven works best because it keeps the top layer of bho viscous enough to let the butane bubble out and escape.

If your oven isn't accurate enough to hold 170f, then the next best thing is to use a pancake griddle and a laser thermometer. The laser thermometer will allow you to accurately measure the temp of the bho, if it gets too hot lift the parchment paper right off of the griddle - it will cool down very fast because of the large surface area.

I would think that a hand pump wouldn't be able to pull a vacuum fast enough he bho would cool down as its expanding (from the vacuum) and you would end up with butane still left in your bho, which will more than likely become budder.

To be fair I have never used a hand pump to purge but the reason why people spend the money and get a two stage pump is because it pulls vacuum so fast. If the bho isn't viscous enough then butane can't escape. That's why timing is very important. People have started to put heated ceramic tiles in the chamber to help the bho stay viscous enough while under the vacuum.
What if when you blast your tubes and you wait for the liquid to evaporate till it's just a thin layer of oil and scrape it onto a silicone Mat and you put it on a pan and cook it at 120f for like 26hrs till all the bubbles pop
 
Jared707,

mook2420

New Member
Hey all,

I lurk a lot and rarely post back but this forum is spectacular so here goes.

I too do not want to mess with vacuum pumps an the like. But will if it means a more pure end product.

Please check out my method, this is pretty much my 2nd time using real flowers. Tested always with AVB for ejuice fail fail etc.

tNKAU69.jpg


Hopefully this worked, here's a sort of image of the rig in action.

QsGtSBO.jpg
 
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mook2420,

herbivore21

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

I lurk a lot and rarely post back but this forum is spectacular so here goes.

I too do not want to mess with vacuum pumps an the like. But will if it means a more pure end product.

Please check out my method, this is pretty much my 2nd time using real flowers. Tested always with AVB for ejuice fail fail etc.

tNKAU69.jpg
I have to say, I'm confused as to why one would bother with solvent techniques like this, especially when running such a small amount of flower. Rosin is far more effective of a technique for your needs and you won't end up with sparking butane soup at the end. You'll get noticably tastier medicine quicker with less risk.

I mean absolutely no antagonism here man, we all started off making earl in similar ways and fought off residual solvent issues back in the day - however for me at least, this was before rosin was a well-known option.

Get some parchment, a straightener and a vise. Squish small .15g-.3g nugs with as much pressure as you can bring to bear at the lowest possible temps on the straight iron. You'll have better tasting oil quicker, not have to use any solvents at all, not have to clean anything afterwards, not have to worry about risks of fire or explosion and especially not have to worry about oil sparkling and giving fireworks when you dab it. You'll be able to process inside without ever going outdoors and you can easily have the same yields.

Solvent extracts do of course have a place, by all means - but that place is really limited to mass production scenarios.

If your oil sparks and tastes bad, IMO it really can't be regarded as being 'purged ok'. Strictly speaking, to purge entails COMPLETE removal of something! Elimination is the key synonym here.

Of course, most of the greatest solvent extracts will have very small, trace amounts of residual solvent (in the PPB or PPM range depending on the solvent) in order not to undergo significant terp loss to eliminate the final trace residuals. None of these best-in-class solvent extracts will spark or taste bad though. All of the best extracts made with solvents by dispensaries are lab tested to confirm the amount of residual solvent.

Have you tried rosin technique before? You will be amazed at the difference in quality and the speed with which you can produce this better quality extract!
 
herbivore21,

mook2420

New Member
Interesting indeed, I appreciate you taking the time to respond! I am not familiar with rosin techniques and indeed would seem better suited for small batches. I will have to investigate further!

Like a flat iron and parchment paper and that's it huh? Off to search the boards I go!

Edit: Hey man thanks again! All your mentioned reasons are exactly why this would fit my needs perfectly. Initially I was doing the experimentation as a test run - wanted to get a viable and repeatable method down before trying slightly larger volumes. BUT my whole reason for wanting concentrates to begin with is to mix with PG, PEG400, VG for use in widely available vaping devices. Rosin will be my next attempt. Unhappy will the girlfriend be that I've repossessed her flat iron, possibly!?!
 
Last edited:

mook2420

New Member
I tried a little puck with low settings, having to unplug right when I was about to press. Those plates would reach 250f fast!

Here is a picture of the yeald:

ZFA0UvC.jpg


Looks like me! Weird!

Anyways, I will try again with more pressure and hopefully get a bit more out. You weren't wrong though, very clear and as pure as can be. I want to use the pucks in smoothies. They'd be decarbed enough I think. Otherwise they are just really sad/hilarious little guys.

I do like the simplicity although is it seems a whole lot less magical than solvent extraction, something wonderful about how the butane boils off at room temp, haha maybe the FUMES!

As always FC friends thanks!
 
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