Thermal Accumulator by phattpiggie

[Grass Yes]

HI

How do I choose any of the different versions? I don't quite understand what the differences are and why each may be desirable or not. Is there a resource?

This post is good description of each:

Here we go then.
Available from Monday March 11th at ThermalAccumulatorSales@mail.com, here, IG and everyones favourite online retailer @VGOODIEZ.
My IG account is public and where I tend to post everything that's going on because it's easier than sharing stuff to 3rd party video and image sites and then to here.

This has taken way too long coming together.
I'll not go into detail but suffice to say I am sourcing a new CNC shop to do the stuff I have in the pipeline.
Apologies to everyone and thank you for your patience.

TAv2 with heater options.
In order of appearance.

Ti bowl with Variabowl depth settings. 8mm compatible spigot.

Knurled 7 hole.
~55 off 3mm ball Heater Matrix, HM.
Non magnetic.
7 off 2mm intake holes.
Available £65.

Knurled AdjustaFlo.
~55 off 3mm ball HM.
Magnetic.
4 off 2mm diameter intake holes.
Available £70.

Both modified OG cases.
Balls loaded from the bowl end as per the OG.

Smooth AdjustaFlo.
~70 off 3mm ball HM.
Magnetic.
Bowl end loading with extra groove for screen location.
2 off 2mm intake slots.
Available £75.

Smooth Easiload AdjustaFlo.
~70 off 3mm ball HM.
Magnetic.
Top load. Ledge and groove for screen location.
2 off 2mm intake slots.
Not available just yet. £80.

Both UK manufactured.


All TA come with bowls and a random colour Murphy Silicone Decapper and a Cherry wood screen set dowel.
AdjustaFlo's come with a small screwdriver so you can set the intake restriction.

The Knurled 7 Hole and Smooth AdjustaFlo versions all have approximately the same intake flow when the adjuster disc is fully open. The Knurled AdjustaFlo have slightly less.
Both Smooth models are UK manufactured.
The AdjustaFlo discs are 430 SS and magnetic. Screws are 304SS.
All titanium parts are grade 2. All screens are 316SS

Cleaning the lines up, deepening the bowl and ditching the OG wooden heat buffer has meant these are not compatible with some metal stems due to heat transfer.

I have some really basic heat buffer bobbins for the Revolve 2 stems. Not pretty but cheap and cheerful.

Different design means different torch heating technique. The heaters are still very forgiving.

Instead of heating the top 3rd I'm heating the top half of the heater.

The Wand still works but also differently. I have 1-2mm of the heater sticking out beyond the glass. No wooden rings this time, sorry.
There should be a desktop IH coming in the future as and when time allows.

MagSink decappers will be available in limited numbers. These are a repurposed and modified 3d printer parts.
There is a hint in the video of their evolution and the drawings have been done ready for the new machine shop.

Being aluminium they suck heat out of the TA very nicely, 5 minutes and it's nearly all gone.

Variabowl is pretty self explanatory, you can vary the bowl depth. Ti screen setting ring.
The Ti ring is not necessary if using the full bowl and there is a screen groove in the bottom of the bowl.

And the product page on Vgoodiez site had a good explanation, iirc.

 

[coolbreeze]

HI

How do I choose any of the different versions? I don't quite understand what the differences are and why each may be desirable or not. Is there a resource?

There's sort of a description with the listings at Vgoodiez copied maybe from here? Anyhow, TA1 & 2 are a bit smaller and hold fewer beads, have a knurled section around the heater for grip, and are an iteration of the OGs. TA1 is not adjustable, is the most open draw and is not magnetic. TA2 is adjustable and I think magnetic. TA3 & 4 are bigger and hold more balls, and are both adjustable and magnetic. TA4 has a removable piece on the top chamber to make it easy to switch out or clean your balls. The bigger chambers are more forgiving but the smaller ones are almost as easy to master. Both give prolonged sessions of hits; the size difference does not make a huge difference in performance.

I have TA1 and 3 and both are just fantastic. I'd get TA1 if you plan to use it DTL or ripped through a waterpipe, and any of the others if you want a tighter draw for mouth-to-lung hits.

 

[Rodney]

I have TA1 and 3 and both are just fantastic. I'd get TA1 if you plan to use it DTL or ripped through a waterpipe, and any of the others if you want a tighter draw for mouth-to-lung hits.

So the TA1 is just as good as the TA3 you would say? just slightly different as you say here? I was thinking of getting the TA3 as thought it would be the best one but I WILL be ripping it through a waterpipe as you say so am going for the TA1 as I trust what I read here.

 

[coolbreeze]

So the TA1 is just as good as the TA3 you would say? just slightly different as you say here? I was thinking of getting the TA3 as thought it would be the best one but I WILL be ripping it through a waterpipe as you say so am going for the TA1 as I trust what I read here.

To me the biggest difference besides airflow is that the TA3 (and presumably 4) can just soak up the heat with very little chance of combustion (within reason). The TA1 was a little more touchy in that regard but I haven't combusted since the first night with it. As far as the airflow is concerned the TA1 is noticeably more open making it perfect for this, but the TA3 is itself plenty open and will work well through a water pipe (I think I bought it because the openness was mentioned in the description). I prefer the TA1 for water, but the TA3 would be fine and has the advantage of a little more mass and the adjustable restriction. Otoh, I also find the TA1 perfectly enjoyable direct-hit, too. I think I actually use the TA1 a good bit more since I like to use a waterpipe.

One last thing, I'm not sure the TA1 &2 are intended to be long-term offerings--my understanding was that the TA3 and 4 are considered the refined production models--so if you like the knurling, the openness, or the smaller size, consider that too.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So the TA1 is just as good as the TA3 you would say? just slightly different as you say here? I was thinking of getting the TA3 as thought it would be the best one but I WILL be ripping it through a waterpipe as you say so am going for the TA1 as I trust what I read here.

TA1 is non-magnetic though so that was actually a big deciding factor for me to choose as well since I wanted to use the MagSink and not silicone or else to remove the hot heater matrix to cash the chamber

 

[coolbreeze]

I wanted to use the MagSink

MagSink works really well, too.

I use a leather band for the TA1 and the ScruffyWoofers stand. that thing's like essential gear (let him know it's for the TA1, though, so he can modify it to fit).

 

[sedentree]

MagSink works really well, too.

I use a leather band for the TA1 and the ScruffyWoofers stand. that thing's like essential gear (let him know it's for the TA1, though, so he can modify it to fit).

No need to let him know, it is now an option (along with the other TAs) you can select when purchasing

 

[Clapped_r6]

I still heaet my OG TA with the wood decapper/ tamper. I'd like it if PP made another batch of the affixed wpa with a matching wood decapper.....

 

[fropones]

So just got my TA3 and have been messing around with it after burn off, but it seems like after my initial adjustment of the flow, the screw now will just spin but not actually unscrew, so I think it may have somehow gotten cross threaded? Has this happened to anyone?

 

[fropones]

So just got my TA3 and have been messing around with it after burn off, but it seems like after my initial adjustment of the flow, the screw now will just spin but not actually unscrew, so I think it may have somehow gotten cross threaded? Has this happened to anyone?

Clearly the TA3 is hitting pretty hard; turns out it was the screwdriver, not the screw